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The Wines of the Finger Lakes : CHATEAU LAFAYETTE RENEAU DRY AND SEMI-DRY RIESLING
If you were to ask Chateau Lafayette Reneau's owner, Dick Reno, what he does best, he would be quick to reference his red wines, in which he takes great pride. His Owner's Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon is without a doubt one of the finest reds produced in the Finger Lakes. Many wine lovers, however, know this winery best because of its lower-priced whites, particularly the Seyval/Chardonnay blend, one of the region's best values.
One could argue, though, that Riesling has most often been the shining star for Chateau Lafayette Reneau since its establishment in 1985. Vintage after vintage, Reno has produced very good to excellent Riesling, both dry and semi-dry. In 1998, his 1997 Johannisberg Riesling won the Governor's Cup, awarded to the wine judged to be New York State's finest. In 2000, his 1999 Dry Riesling received the same honor.
The 2008 Rieslings, crafted by Reno and winemaker Tim Miller, are two of the best yet. The dry version has a lovely, flowery nose with hints of mineral and ginger lurking beneath the crisp, apple-y fruit. The semi-dry has a riper, fruitier profile, with an attractive apricot note adding complexity to the lingering finish. Its 2.7 percent residual sugar is perfectly balanced by zesty acidity.
Riesling is one of the most food friendly of all wines—its low alcohol and palate-cleansing acidity are among the attributes that make it a good choice for meals in which a wide variety of dishes are being served. Either of these Rieslings would be a fine complement to this year's Thanksgiving dinner. If traditional side dishes such as sweet potatoes and cranberry sauce are on the menu, the semi-dry would be an especially good choice.
— Dave Pohl
Dave Pohl, MA '79, is a wine buyer at Northside Wine & Spirits in Ithaca.
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